Loftus Help Page
Which size kit should I buy?
The Larger Kit can make any size Loftus up to the largest size. The Smaller Kit can make a Loftus up to a 36E. If you add a second Loftus Bra Finishing Kit, you can get 2 bras from a kit in some sizes.
What are my fabric options?
The Loftus is lined in Sheer Cup Lining which is a sheer, stable fabric. The cup can be made from Microduoplex or Sheer Cup Lining. Microduoplex is also completely stable, as well as opaque and luxuriously soft. Which to choose for your Loftus? Sheer Cup Lining gives a more translucent look under the lace. It's also breathable and airy. Microduoplex provides opaque coverage and has a beautiful luminous sheen which is both lovely on its own or the perfect palette for the addition of lace.
The strength of our microduoplex fabric, which makes it so wonderful for bras, also makes it hard to puncture with needles and pins. This is true with most duoplex fabrics. Use either fine silk pins or Wonder Clips to pin (I find Wonder Clips work best), and a Microtex 80/12 needle with a smooth thread like Superior Threads So Fine or Mettler Metrosene to make it easy to sew. In my testing, the So Fine thread and Microtex 80/12 won the challenge of the nicest stitch on microduoplex, and as long as my presser foot completely covered the seam allowance, I found it just as easy to sew as quilting cotton. I moved the needle to the right to set my seam allowance at 1/4" since my presser foot is a bit wide. I find it works well to saturate the lace with liquid starch and let it dry before laying out your pattern pieces and cutting your fabric. This stiffens the lace until you wash it and the lace has enough body to behave well in the sewing process.
We offer all these pins, clips, needles and thread here on our site.
Will I need the extra kit cut of cup fabric?
The extra kit cut will come as a fat quarter, distinct from your main kit yardages (except in the Smaller Microduoplex Kit). This additional fabric is great if you don't want to be super particular about your pattern placement, especially in larger sizes, or you like some extra margin for error. Either way, sometimes, it's really nice to have a little bit extra fabric on hand.
How can I use lace on my Loftus?
The Loftus was designed for an allover lace using a non-stretch lace that is 40" wide. However, you can use many kinds of lace with a little creativity! We've pulled together some of our ideas for how you can use different kinds of laces. Each listing shows some of these ideas in mockups, as well as a picture of how to place your pattern pieces in the largest pattern size and the largest size which can be made from a Smaller Kit. Some galloon tulle laces work well along the insert while some work well in the center cup. Sometimes the body of the lace has fun features that make a beautiful pattern over cup pieces. Consider the width of the lace for pattern placement and the scale of the lace design when selecting.
We're showing you some lace techniques in our video to get you started. Sue demonstrates how to cut out your lace pieces for easy application and great pattern management. Here's a little overview of some steps that will help you get started.
1. Either make a mark on your pattern or else make a new pattern piece for your galloon edge on the Inner cup. The fancy "galloon" edge of the lace will stay on the front of the cup and be out of the way of the elastic on the edge of the cup.
2. Mark your Center Insert pattern piece with the stitching line. This will be the low point of you motif on your galloon lace.
3. Decide where you want your lace, and what part of the lace you'll be using for each pattern piece. There are several ideas in the video.
4. Lay out your pattern piece either over or under you lace and CUT IN A SINGLE LAYER.
5. Flip your cut piece over and find the mirror match of the pattern. Lay the first pattern piece over the mirror and cut out the second layer for the other side. Clip the lace and the fabric pattern pieces all together.
6. Once both the lace and the fabric are cut out, lightly spray the back of the lace with temporary spray adhesive (optional). Edge stitch around the non-galloon edges of the pattern piece. True up the lace to the base fabric. Now treat this combination as the outer fabric for the rest of the project. If you have chosen to place a galloon edge on the strap or in a different place, stitch the loose edge to the base fabric with a small zigzag. Leave the front edge of the Inner cup loose at this time.
7. When the band elastic has been applied to the front edge of the bra, use a small zigzag to stitch the galloon edge of the lace to the cup. If you're certain that there won't be any interference you can do this step before stitching the neckline elastic.
8. To apply lace to the Center Insert, complete steps 1 and 2 of the instructions to put the 2 layers together, turned and topstitched. Apply the lace putting the lowest point of the lace at the top edge of the completed insert section and zigzag along the top edge. Edgestitch around the entire piece and true up the lace to the fabric. Treat this as your assembled section for the rest of the main instructions.
All the lace kits that we sell for the Loftus will work for even the largest size. Many of our other kits can work also! To have one of our other kits made up like a Loftus, please order the "Make it Your Own" kit and leave notes letting us know what kit you'd like to adapt. We'll make it up with that lace and those colors for you. If you've found a different lace, we're always willing to look at pictures and let you know what color we think would work best.
We ask you how much lace you would like for your kit. For lace in the insert, you will need 3/4 yard. For lace on the inner cup, you will need 1 1/2 yards. For allover lace, you will need 3 yards. These yardages take into account a little extra for pattern matching and ideal placement. There are always creative ways to place your lace and the more experience you have with bra sewing, the more creativity you can exercise. And, don't forget the matching panty! We have a nice variety of undie kits so you can have the set.